Boot or shoe



(No Model.)

' A. VAN WAGENEN.

A BOOT 0R SHOE. No. 317,477 Y 'Patented May 5, 1885.

Wiki-l E 5 5 E 5.

UNITED VSTATES PATENT OEEIeEo ALBERT VAN WAGENEN, OF BOSTON,MASSACHUSETTS.`

. BooT oa SHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. A317,477, dated May 5,1.885.

Application iled March 2, 1835. .KNO model.)

To all whom it may concern.'

Be it known that l, ALBERT VAN WAGEN- EN, of Boston, county of Suffolk,State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Boots and Shoes,of which the following description in connection with the accompau yin gdrawings, is a specication, like letters on the drawings representinglike parts.

rlhis invention has for its object to increase the flexibility of thesoles of boots and shoes as made on the McKay and other similarmachines. In the class of shoe made on the machines referred to, andvknown as machinesewed shoes, the inner sole is laid upon the last,theupperis drawn over theinner sole, and the outer sole is then applied,and the outer sole, upper, and inner sole are penetrated by the needle,and the thread is drawn through them to form stitches. To render thisclass of shoe flexible, it has been proposed to cut away the edge of theinner sole for a greater or less distance about the sides of the forepart, so as `to enable the needle in its work to pass by the edge of,and not enter, the inner sole a-longthe sides of the fore partor ball ofthe sole. In my experiments to provide for yet greater exibility of thesole, and at the same time cheapen the cost of the boot or shoe, I havefound that the stiff leather or leather-board inner sole need beextended only from the heel to the front of the shank', and that only atextile or thin soft lining-sole nerd be extended to the toe of the bootor shoe.

Figure 1, in section, represents a last with an upper, an outer sole,and a shortened inner sole, and lining-sole embodying my invention. Fig.2 is a section of Fig. 1 in the dotted line .fr x, the last beingomitted, and Fig. 3 is a top side view of my combined inner and liningsole detached.

In the manufacture of a vboot or shoe in accordance with my inventionthe lining-sole a, preferably of textile material, is laid upon thebottom of the last b, and upon the liningsole is laid the shortenedinner sole, c, the latter preferably of leather, (but it may be ofleather-board or other substitute for leather,) being extended fromtheheel of the shoe to the front of the shank, as shown in the drawings.The edges of the upper d will next be drawn over upon the inner sole andthe lining-sole, and willbe temporarily secured, and the outersole, e,will then be applied, the latter being channeled in any usual way forthe reception of the stitches j', to be made by any suitable or usualsole-sewin g machine. It is desirable to make the shank of a .boot orshoe quite stiff, and the fore part, under the ball of the foot, quiteflexible. The point Vwhere the strain is the greatest is in and near theshank.

In accordance with my invention, the sti or substantial shortened innersole extends throughout that part of the boot or shoe where the greateststiffness and strength are needed. The stitches f pass through theupper, outer sole, and shortened inner sole, and also through thelining-sole, as shown in Fig. 3, but from the toe to the front end ofthe shortened inner sole the stitches run through only the liningsole,upper, and outer sole. The duty of the lining-sole is to cover the innerside of the outer sole and the edges of the upper and hold the stitches.

To conceal the stitches or fasteningsfatthe heel portion ofthe sole,thelining-solea may be slit in the dotted line 3, and be turned back, asdesignated by dotted lines in Fig. 2, while the stitches j' are beingmade and the. heel-attachin g nails are being driven, and thereafterturned down, and pasted or cemented in place to cover the said stitches.The upper d may be of any usual shape, cut, or material.

The fastenings herein described are stitches, but, instead, I might usea metal fastening, which may be clinched; but I prefer stitches.

Fig. 3 shows the lining-sole pasted down over, and to conceal, thestitches or fastenin gs about the heel of the shortened inner sole.

I claim- 1. As an improved article of manufacture, a boot or shoecomposed of an upper, a shortened inner sole, an outer sole, and alining-sole, the shortened inner sole terminating at the forward partofthe shank, the said parts being united by stitches or fastenings,substantially as described.

2. In a boot or shoe having a shortened inner sole in which thefastenings for uniting outer sole and upper at the heel and forfastening the heel itself pass only through the shortened inner sole,the soft or textile liningsole, the latter being slit at its edge, asshown and described, whereby a portion of the said lining-sole near itsouter edge may be turned IOO back while uniting the outer soie upon theinner sole ait the heel-seat and attaching the heel, after which thesoft .inner sole muy be again returned, covering the stitches orfastenings, and leaving the lining-sole free from fastenings at thatpart, substantially as devscribed.

In testimony whereof I have signedmy name to this specication in thepresence of' two subscribing Witnesses.

ALBERT VAN WAGENEN.

Witnessesz Gr. W. GREGORY, W. H. SIGSTON.

